A local's guide to Edinburgh

Our ultimate guide to a weekend in Scotland's capital city

Edinburgh is a city that rewards curiosity. It’s a place where medieval history rubs shoulders with modern restaurants, and panoramic viewpoints are never far from a great coffee stop. Whether you’re visiting for a long weekend or lingering a little longer, this local’s guide brings together cultural highlights and hidden foodie favourites that shouldn’t be missed on your next trip to Edinburgh.

Start with the classics: Old Town and Arthur’s Seat

Begin your exploration at Holyrood Palace and make your way up Arthur’s Seat. The climb up this infamous hill is invigorating rather than intimidating, and the views from the summit stretch across the city to the Firth of Forth beyond, It’s well worth the effort on a clear day but sturdy shoes are recommended, as although the hill is manageable, it’s steep and can be slippery in places.

From here, follow the historic spine of the city along the Royal Mile, where centuries of history unfold between Holyrood and Edinburgh Castle. If you time it right, pause near the castle ramparts for the One O’Clock Gun, a tradition dating back to 1861 and still fired daily (except Sundays).

Victoria Street, Grassmarket and literary Edinburgh

For a more atmospheric route, detour towards Victoria Street and the Grassmarket. With its colourful, curving facades and independent shops, Victoria Street is often cited as inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books and the nearby Greyfriars graveyard strengthens the connection, with tombstones bearing names of characters that have appeared in the series.

Food options here are plentiful and characterful.

• Oink is ideal for a quick hog roast roll.
• Mary’s Milk Bar is the place for artisan ice cream, whatever the weather.
• For something more traditional, Howies (just above Victoria Street on George IV Bridge) offers classic Scottish cooking in relaxed surroundings.
• Nearby, you’ll also find everything from Café Andaluz for tapas to The Cellar Door for pre-theatre drinks.

Culture for all weathers: National Museum of Scotland and the National Galleries of Scotland

Just off George IV Bridge on Chambers Street, the National Museum of Scotland is a must-visit, and it’s free! Spanning five floors, it effortlessly blends natural history, science, design and Scottish heritage, making it ideal for all ages and especially perfect on a rainy day. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace café, where you’re rewarded with one of the best views Edinburgh has to offer. 

Another cultural favourite is the National Galleries of Scotland, which houses an incredible collection of art across seven beautiful spaces. At Christmas, its location on The Mound is one of the best places in the city to admire the festive light display in Princes Street Gardens.

New Town elegance and green spaces

Head north to George Street, the refined heart of Edinburgh’s New Town. Here you’ll find stylish bars, restaurants and cocktail lounges, ideal for an unhurried lunch or evening drink.

Just off George Street, Rose Street is more informal and lively. Seafood lovers should seek out The Mussel Inn, a long-standing favourite for fresh, simply prepared shellfish.

For a pause between sightseeing, wander through Princes Street Gardens, tucked beneath the castle, or venture a little further to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, a tranquil escape with beautiful seasonal displays.

Coffee, craft and Italian heritage

Near the Playhouse Theatre, Valvona & Crolla is an Edinburgh institution. This family-run Italian deli has been serving the city for generations and is a wonderful spot for excellent coffee, pastries and authentic produce. A reminder of Edinburgh’s quietly diverse food heritage.

The neighbourhood charm of Leith

If dining is high on your agenda, take a short bus ride from Princes Street to Leith. Once a separate port town, it’s now one of Edinburgh’s most exciting culinary neighbourhoods.

Highlights include:

• Restaurant Martin Wishart for refined, Michelin-starred dining.
• The Kitchin, celebrating Scottish ingredients with Italian influence.
• Mimi’s Bakehouse, perfect for cake and coffee in relaxed surroundings.

Aside from foodie attractions, Leith offers waterfront walks, independent shopping and has a creative energy that feels distinct from the rest of the city.

Where to Stay

After a day immersed in Edinburgh’s historic streets, cultural highlights and vibrant food scene, retreating just beyond the city offers a different kind of luxury. Melville Castle, set within peaceful woodland on the edge of Edinburgh, provides exactly that balance. It’s close enough to enjoy the city with ease, but far enough to feel wonderfully removed from it.

Here, days begin with birdsong rather than traffic, and evenings are best spent unwinding by the fire or enjoying dinner in the restaurant. It’s an ideal base for discovering Edinburgh at your own pace, combining the richness of the city with the restorative charm of a countryside escape.